Doesn't this picture look like a publicity shot for the show Survivor?!?! I love it!
I took my first trip into the interior of Suriname two weeks ago - three glorious days away from the noise and chaos of Paramaribo. We traveled first to Brownsberg Nature Reserve at the centre of which ironically is a man-made hill. The Brownsberg hill was formed through the excavation of bauxite. However it was formed, it’s a perfect escape from Paramaribo. After a bumpy ride down the bauxite roads and a hair-raising ride up the mountain we arrived at the camp. It’s a cluster of houses actually and research stations run by Stinasu (an eco foundation here in Suriname) and the World Wildlife Fund. The accommodations were pretty posh by the standards I was used to (trekking in Thailand is much more rustic!). Here we had an actual house with cooking facilities, showers, toilets and electricity for part of the night. We had bunks to sleep in and the most lovely of all, a great view overlooking Brokopondo Lake (which also happens to be man-made). The Lake was formed when the valley was flooded to build Suriname’s only hydro dam.
The road to Brownsberg.
The view of Brokopondo Lake.
Our posh cabin.
Our bunks with mosquito nets.
We arrived with plenty of time to take a hike. So off we went with the promise that supper would be ready when we returned. We decided to hike to two waterfalls – Irenevallen and Leovallen (vallen is waterfall for my non-nederlanders!).
The hike started out easy enough, but as we made our way into the jungle and down, down, and still further down. I thought dear god, at some point I’m going to have to climb back up!
We arrived finally at our first falls after about an hour and a half. We probably could have gotten there sooner but there were so many things to see and take pictures of along the way like….
Birds taking a bath in the puddle on the road.
Photo by Berwyn.
Blue butterflies…so many beautiful blue butterflies.
Photo by Berwyn.
A beautiful view of Brownsberg.
HUGE trees with perfect vines for swinging.
When we finally arrived at the falls I have to admit I was VERY disappointed. For one I’ve seen many beautiful waterfalls in my travels. Not to mention Canada has some seriously beautiful waterfalls. Sure you can’t swim or even tolerate the cold water to stand in, but damn they are beautiful. For two, I had just walked over an hour down some very slippery clay trails to get to a fall I had envisioned swimming in. So I was a bit bummed. That said it was still pretty and nice and refreshing after getting sweaty on the trail.
We stayed just long enough to have a little picnic then it was off to the next falls. I have to say I ABSOLUTELY dreaded the walk back – my Prairie girl legs were just not toned for climbing…but I managed….barely!!
Here we are on the trail.
Photo by Berwyn
We got to the next falls but I decided to sit this one out. I wasn’t thrilled about hiking down to another falls only to be disappointed again. I opted instead to take a rest and enjoy the jungle in my own way – sitting on a log cursing at the mosquitos and looking waaaaaay up above the trees to find the sky. The other adventurers went on but it wasn’t long before I was rejoined by one who had gone down and confirmed my suspicion – these falls were even smaller and there was definitely no swimming in them either. Retribution for once listening to my gut instinct paid off…yay me!
Back at the camp we enjoyed a delicious dinner and then took to the benches overlooking the lake. It was a gorgeous evening. Julie, Christa, Corina and I enjoyed sitting looking out at the lake and wondering what the strange white cloud that was floating slowly and much lower than any other cloud in the sky was. Was it chemical and therefore the reason why there were in fact very few mosquitos in Brownsberg as compared to the city?
You decide…..note the cloud.
Photo by Berwyn
The next morning we got up early to catch site of some howler monkeys. We’d heard them the day before during our hike but didn’t catch site of them. This time they were right near our camp. So funny. We stood looking up at them, they sat looking down at us.
I won't lie. No way my camera could get a shot like this...thanks Berwyn!
In the morning we took a short walk up to a beautiful lookout and just enjoyed the view. Note: I enjoyed this hike MUCH more than the day before!!!
Christa and I at the lookout.
Corina and Berwyn smile for the camera...see Berwyn's camera? Now you understand all the good photos!
The view from Mazaroni Top (ie the lookout).
Just after lunch it was time to get back on the bus and head down the mountain (er hill!) and catch a boat to Tonka Eiland. Unfortunately we lost Berwyn who was determined to get some good shots in this cave (full of bats) that we’d encountered on our hike the day before.
Berwyn……Berwyn…..where are you????
The boat ride to Tonka Eiland brought us up close and personal with all of those trees that were submerged when the lake was made. Sometimes we came very close (you could feel them scrape along the bottom of the boat and then you’d hear the motor hit). I wondered if we’d actually make it to Tonka Eiland!
But we did. And it was great. We went swimming (some ventured in farther than others). Had a chance to wander around and just relax. Lovely, lovely, lovely.
Some shots around Tonka Eiland.
Our cabin.
And here's how we spent most of our time at Tonka Eiland....swimming...with the pirahnas (though I only saw minnows)!!
It happened to be a full moon the night we were there. While Julie, Corina and Marjan curled up in hammocks Christa and I staked out a spot on the beach.
Did I mention that our cabin was home to bats, spiders and geckos? That's not why we slept outside (for most of the night anyway). No it's because the full moon, the nice breeze and the waves rolling in were just too nice to resist!
Photo by Berwyn (as if you had to even ask!)
And here's another he took....do you blame us for hanging out on the beach all night?
The next morning we got to go piranha fishing. Unfortunately only half our party caught fish. I maintain that by the time it was my turn the piranhas were well fed!!
Photo by Berwyn.
After lunch (which included piranha)
it was time to pack up and head back to Paramaribo.
I have to say I was a bit sad to get back on the boat. For one there was the rough road to endure on the return trip and then we’d be back in the city. Back to the noise. Back to the barking dogs. And even worse, back to the mosquitos.
Safety first. Christa and I faithfully wear our life-jackets.
And so did Marjan and Inge!
If anything getting to the interior of Suriname once certainly is motivation to plan more trips and to venture even farther. Not sure where I’ll get to but I know I want to see more.
Many thanks to our WONDERFUL guides. Did I mention that I was sort of a guide too? My dutch has gotten good enough that I acted as an interpreter for the trip...yay me!
Rehana
Buru & Sidesh
Red dust from the bauxite roads gets onto everything. All along the way the trees (and our bus) are covered with it.
Until next time....
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